25 small fashion labels which will have a big impact on your wardrobe
Is there any style thrill greater than discovering a little-known name that gives your wardrobe a new lease of life? Here, we showcase the small labels exerting a big influence on the fashion world. Take note…
1. Rosie Assoulin
Vivid colour and voluminous silhouettes are Rosie Assoulin’s trademark. The New York designer with couture credentials (she cut her teeth at Oscar de la Renta and Lanvin) has an exacting eye, with draping and asymmetric details a recurring theme. But what really makes her designs a hit (spotted on everyone from Rihanna to Rose Byrne) is the joyful energy that runs through every collection.
2. Asceno
Asceno claims its silk pyjamas are sleepwear, but we say it would be a shame not to show them off. You could put a relaxed shirt or louche trousers with more classically daytime pieces, however they are best worn as sets with trainers, loafers or heels. Now best friends Poppy Sexton-Wainwright and Lauren Leask have diversified into beautiful beach cover-ups and swimwear, too.
3. Rejina Pyo
Rejina Pyo’s signatures are a nipped-in waist, the perfect midi length and exaggerated sleeves that look fashion-forward, but are also nifty for upper-arm concealment. Just the thing for making a statement without too much effort. We also love the classic-but-cool coats and elegantly modern accessories. Born in Korea, Pyo now shows at London Fashion Week – her collection is the one fashion editors want to snaffle immediately.
4. Wyse London
The conversation-starter cashmere jumper has stolen many a heart in recent years, but few have tapped into that better than Marielle Wyse. ‘I wanted to make something that would work if you were 30 or 60,’ says Marielle of her label Wyse London. ‘It’s how you style it that’s important.’ Stars, stripes and flashes of neon are a few of the jolly details you’ll find here.
5. Staud
Responsible for the minimal leather-and-net bucket bag spotted on the arm of every stylish woman from Milan to California, Staud has fast gone from unknown to must-have. Launched in 2015 by then-26-year-old Sarah Staudinger, the collections are made and designed in LA. Alongside cult bags, her pieces feature clean lines and a fresh palette over A-line day dresses and modern rompers. staud.clothing
6. Alighieri
After several seasons of statement earrings being the jewellery item to wear, Alighieri – brainchild of Oxford French-and-Italian graduate Rosh Mahtani – is reshaping trends with its beautifully crafted treasures inspired by Dante’s Divine Comedy. The Venetian coin necklaces are the most recognisable pieces (and will look great against a tanned décolletage this summer), but sculptural hair slides and earrings that look like droplets of molten gold are equally, well, divine. alighieri.co.uk
7. Needle & Thread
Needle & Thread has cornered the market in pretty, whimsical occasionwear. Exquisite embroidery, delicate lace and intricate embellishment have cemented it as the go-to label for boho brides, unconventional bridesmaids and anyone craving alternative evening wear. needleandthread.com
8. The Vampire’s Wife
Although The Vampire’s Wife has only been going a couple of years, founder Susie Cave (the model wife of musician Nick) has tapped into the craving we never knew we had for gorgeous, modest party dresses. Designed from a studio in Brighton, the label blends opulent fabrics with prim high necks and ruffle details. Sienna Miller, Ruth Negga and Keira Knightley are among its A-list fans.
9. Isabelle Fox
Former barrister Isabelle Waring’s inspiration is her grandmother Marie Fox, a couture-trained seamstress. Waring applies traditional techniques to the modern, refined designs she creates for her label Isabelle Fox, which started in 2016. Happily, they don’t come with couture prices: a delicate silk blouse is £155, while Katharine Hepburn-esque wide-legged trousers come in at £245.
10. Neous
The distinctive, sculptural footwear at Neous is inspired by Bauhaus principles – resulting in spherical heels, squared toes and circular hardware. It’s no surprise to learn the duo behind this label have exemplary fashion credentials – an ex-Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue stylist and a classically trained shoemaker who cut his teeth under Peter Pilotto and Nicholas Kirkwood.
11. Khaite
New York-based Khaite is on e of those labels that makes you want to throw out everything you own and live in a wardrobe comprised solely of its designs . We’re talking laid-back summer dresses and crisp with-a-twist tailoring. Creator Catherine Holstein has said ‘feminine clothing that isn’t pretty or precious’ is her motivation.
12. Blake LDN
Founded by Rag & Bone alumna Alice Ashby, Blake Ldn’s knitwear focuses on provenance and quality – every piece is made in the UK using th e very best yarns from within Europe. With chunk y sweaters for winter and light-as-a-feather tanks for summer, the label delivers nuanced detail via interesting colour combinations. blake-ldn.com
13. Monographie
By reinventing the white shirt, Parisian label Monographie offers a masterclass in minimal chic. Each collection is separate d into Essentials –a series of classic shapes – and Edition, which is more experimental, incorporating knife pleats, ruffles and cutaway details. Every design is approached on an almost - scientific level by founder Aude Castéja, who used to work at Céline.
14. Hades
Crafted from 100 per cent lambswool in a family-run factory in Hawick, the Scottish home of knitwear , Hades became an overnight success when Alex a Chung et al sported the pieces emblazoned wit h band names from the first collection (the second sold out in 20 minutes). This season’s Alphabet sweaters are set to be just as popular.
15. Albus Lumen
Guaranteed to inspire instant wanderlust, Aussie label Albus Lumen’s collections ar e packed with diaphanous silhouettes in breezy fabrics and undone tailoring in sunshine - ready shades. Favouring timeless styles and luxe finishing over trends, stylist-turned-designer Marina Afonina has a knack for knowing exactly what women want to wear on holiday.
16. Anna Mason
I hope women feel like the best versions o f themselves when wearing my clothes,’ says London designer Anna Mason, who used to make clothe s for herself and started her label in 2012 because women were stopping her in the street to ask where they were from. Now she hosts intimate salon presentations to showcase her modern ladylike pieces–we love the chambray dress for spring.
17. Blaze Milano
We all need an impeccable blazer (or five)–look no further than Blazé Milano. Founded by stylists Corrada Rodriguez D’Acri, Delfina Pinardi and Sole Torlonia, Blazé has the sharpest selection of jackets in tweed , velvet, check and classic crêpe, all cut in a distinctive double - breasted silhouette. Throw on e on with jeans or layer over a silky evening dress.
18. Re/Done
Re/Done re purposes vintage denim and leather into one-of-a-kind pieces , all made in downtown LA. Jeans are the hero product, but the label’s distinctly Californian daywear includes lived-in T-shirts and slogan sweatshirts. The jeans style to look up now is The Crawford, created by supermodel Cindy to replicate her favourite 1990s Levi’s an d described as ‘not too high, too low or too skinny’.
19. Cefinn
Cefinn launched wit h a flurry of publicity in February 2017, mere months after Samantha Cameron had escaped Downing Street. A year on, her label still gets our vote, with a tight edit of pieces you can wear to work, then on t o dinner and drinks. Crucially, everything is pragmatic without being boring: think wearable colours, exposed zips and flattering, modern cuts.
20. Lily and Lionel
Alice Stone named her scarf brand Lily and Lionel after her fashion-loving grandparents. She quickly diversified into a range of vintage-inspired dresses and separates in beautiful limited-edition prints. Worn by a host of Instagram style influencers – from Pandora Sykes to Erica Davies–the label has already grown a loyal following. The 1970s dress is a firm favourite, and comes in an overblow n botanical pattern this season . lilyandlionel.com
21. Halpern
Michael Halpern’s label has swiftly establishe d itself as the go-to for high-octane, mega-watt glamour. Made in the UK and debuted at London Fashion Week last year , all-over sequins are the Parsons and Central Saint Martins graduate’s calling card. His Studi o 54-inspired designs have already graced the red carpet on A-lis t backs including Amal Clooney, Lupita Nyong’o and Marion Cotillard. halpernstudio.com
22. Marina London
Beautifully cut and crafted in 100 per cent silk, Marina London’s ‘basics’ are permanently on our wish list. Launched in 2011 by Marina Guergova (the ideal poster girl for her own creations), styles are named after friends and muses of the brand – who could resist the slinky, button-through and floor-sweeping Dree dress?
23. Maryam Nassir Zadeh
If you could only have one pair of shoes in your wardrobe, then Maryam Nassir Zadeh’s suede block-heeled ballerinas should be high on the list o f contenders. The Tehran-born designer’s footwear is beloved of the street-style set thanks to its range of shades and pared-back shapes. If you’re ever in New York, pop into the gallery-like Lower East Side store, which stocks her ready-to-wear . mnzstore.com
24. Olive
If you love the pure lines and minimalist approach of The Row, but can’t justify the prices, you have to check out Olive. The British label has a store in Cheltenham and serious eco-conscious credentials. The spring collection includes a plethora of laid-back skirts, chic shirts and simple sundresses .
25. Sykes
After stints as creative director at Aquascutum and Nicole Farhi, Jo Sykes quietly launched her label Sykes London last autumn and it has provided the ultimate blend of sporty ease and polished sophistication for those in the know. The ‘tracksuit suit ’ is a hero of the collection, but we’r e also into the knitted, structured dresses and mannish shirts.